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A History of the French Quarter in New Orleans

The French Quarter is the oldest and most famous neighborhood of the city of New Orleans, Louisiana. The area is also known as the Vieux Carré ("Old Square" in French) and the Barrio Latino ("Latin Neighborhood" in Spanish). To many of us born here, it is simply just called "The Quarter."

Founded as a military-style grid of seventy squares in 1718 by French Canadian naval officer Jean Baptiste Bienville, the French Quarter of New Orleans has charted a course of urbanism for parts of four centuries. Bienville served as governor for financier John Law's Company of the Indies, which in naming the city for the Regent Duc d'Orleans sought to curry Court favor before failing spectacularly in the "Great Mississippi Bubble." The French Period legacy endures in the town plan and central square, church of St. Louis, Ursuline Convent and women's education, ancien regime street names such as Bourbon and Royal, the charity hospital, and a mixed legacy of Creole culture, Mardi Gras, and the important effects of African enslavement combined with a tolerant approach to free persons of color.

The "Spanish" Quarter
In 1762 the indifferent Louis XV transferred Louisiana to his Bourbon cousin Charles III of Spain. Emboldened by a period of Spanish vacillation in taking power, Francophile colonists staged a revolution in 1768, summarily squelched by Alejandro O'Reilly with a firing squad at the Esplanade fort. Spanish rule lasted for four decades, imparting a legacy of semi-fortified streetscapes, common-wall plastered brick houses, and walled courtyards used as gardens and utility spaces with separate servants' quarters and kitchens. Olive oil cooking and graceful wrought iron balconies, hinges and locks in curvilinear shapes, and strong vestiges of civil law remain from the Spanish presence. After great fires of 1788 and 1794, the Cabildo or town hall, Presbytere or priests' residence, and ironically the "French" Market, arose to take a permanent place in French Quarter history.

The most common definition of the French Quarter includes all the land stretching along the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue (12 blocks) and inland to Rampart Street (7 to 9 blocks). Some definitions, such as city zoning laws, exclude the blocks facing Canal Street (which had already been redeveloped by the time "preservation" was considered) and the section between Decatur Street and the River, much of which had long served industrial and warehousing functions. Any alteration to structures in the remaining blocks is subject to review by the "Vieux Carré Commission," which determines whether the proposal is "appropriate" for the historic character of the district.

 

After the Louisiana Purchase
The 1803 Louisiana Purchase, signed within the elegant salon of the Cabildo, transferred the colony to the United States, inaugurating an era of prosperity. American culture made slow inroads, largely owing to the arrival of 10,000 refugees of the French and Haitian Revolutions and Napoleonic wars. The "glorious victory" of the 1815 Battle of New Orleans, led by Indian fighter and future president Andrew Jackson over numerically superior British forces, fixed loyalty to the American nation. The French Quarter's golden era followed as cotton, sugar and steamboats poured into the city. American, Irish, German, African and "Foreign French" immigrants swelled the population, creating a heterogeneous matrix of culture, language, religion and cuisine.

Civil War to WPA
Civil War and Reconstruction, played out politically on the streets of the French Quarter, put an end to prosperity and inaugurated a tug of war between reform and machine factions as the Old Square declined. Creoles moved to Esplanade and later Uptown, and famine-driven Sicilian immigrants found cramped lodging in the grand spaces of French Quarter mansions of the 1890s. The 1900 birth of jazz in nearby Storyville nurtured musical legends Jelly Roll Morton, Louis Armstrong, Buddy Bolden, King Oliver, Bunk Johnson, Nick LaRocca, and other jazz and ragtime greats. By 1920 the legacy of a storied past first celebrated by George Washington Cable and Lafcadio Hearn in the 1880s attracted writers and artists in increasing numbers. William Faulkner, Sherwood Anderson, Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote were among American writers attracted to the French Quarter for its freewheeling urbanism, quaint surroundings and creative stimulus, even as the building stock declined.

 

Most of the buildings date from before New Orleans became part of the United States, although there are some late 19th century and early 20th century buildings in the area as well. Since the 1920s the historic buildings have been protected by law and cannot be demolished, and any renovations or new construction in the neighborhood must be done according to regulations to match the period historic architectural style.


With elaborate ironwork galleries on the corner of Royal and St. Peter streets, to the crowed Bourbonstreet bead balcony bars. Despite the name, much of the architecture was built during the Spanish rule over New Orleans rather than the French. A great fire in 1794 destroyed much of the Quarter's old French colonial architecture, leaving the colony's new Spanish overlords to rebuild it according to more modern tastes -- and strict new fire codes, which mandated that all structures be physically adjacent and close to the curb to create a firewall. The old French peaked roofs were replaced with flat tiled ones, and now-banned wooden siding with fire-resistant stucco, painted in the pastel hues fashionable at the time. As a result, colorful walls and roofs and elaborately decorated ironwork balconies and galleries from both the 18th century and 19th centuries abound. (In southeast Louisiana, a distinction is made between balconies, which have no roof over them, and "galleries," which do.)

Long after the U.S. purchase of Louisiana, descendants of French colonists lived in this part of town, and the French language was often heard there as late as the start of the 20th century.

When the Americans began to move in after the Louisiana Purchase, they mostly built just upriver, across modern day Canal Street. The median of the wide boulevard became a place where the two contentious populations could meet and do business. As such, it became known as the "neutral ground", and this name persists in the New Orleans area for medians.

In the late 19th century the Old Quarter became a less fashionable part of town, and many immigrants from southern Italy settled in the section. In the early 20th century the Quarter's cheap rents and air of age and neglected decay attracted a bohemian and artistic community.

On December 21, 1965, the "Vieux Carré Historic District" was designated a National Historic Landmark.

In the 1980s many long-term Quarter residents were evicted or driven away by rising rents as property values rose dramatically with expectations of windfalls from the planned 1984 World's Fair nearby. More of the neighborhood became developed for the benefit of tourism. The French Quarter remains a combination of residential and commercial properties.

 

Vieux Carre Commission
Nineteen thirty-six marked the onset of regulatory controls in the form of the state-sanctioned Vieux Carré Commission. Residents dug in to preserve the quaint and distinctive character of the old Quarter as art galleries and antique stores sprouted on Royal Street and brassy Dixieland-style jazz flourished in Bourbon Street nightclubs and strip joints. By 1960, with traditional jazz in decline, Preservation Hall emerged to serve beleaguered musicians. Here Sweet Emma Barrett and other traditional and largely African-American musicians found appreciative and sober audiences. Today, these and other preservation battles are the order of the day as increasing pressure from a tourist-driven economy lures some 10 million visitors annually to the time and foot-worn streets of the Vieux Carré.

Jackson Square (formerly Place des Armes) , Originally designed by architect and landscaper Louis H. Pilié (although he is only given credit for the iron fence), is a city-block sized open park, at the old center of the city ( GPS +29.95748 -090.06310 ). After the Battle of New Orleans it was named after victorious general Andrew Jackson; an equestrian statue of Jackson is in the center of the park.


Jackson statue and Saint Louis CathedralThe square originally overlooked the Mississippi River across Decatur Street, but the view was blocked in the 19th century by the building of larger levees. The riverfront was long given to shipping, but the administration of Mayor Moon Landrieu put in a scenic boardwalk along the river across from the Square; it is known as the "Moon Walk" in his honor.

On the opposite side of the square are three 18th-century historic buildings which were the city's heart in the colonial era. The center of the three is St. Louis Cathedral. The Cathedral was designated a minor Basilica by Pope Paul VI. To its left is the Cabildo, the old city hall, now a museum, where the finalization of the Louisiana Purchase was signed. To the Cathedral's right is the Presbytère, built to match the Cabildo. The Presbytère originally housed the city's Roman Catholic priests and authorities, it was then turned into a courthouse at the start of the 19th century, and in the 20th century became a museum.

On the other two sides of the square are the Pontalba Buildings, matching red-brick block long 4-story buildings built in the 1840s. The ground floors house shops and restaurants; the upper floors are apartments that are the oldest continuously rented such apartments in North America.

Directly across from Jackson Square is the Jax Brewery building, the original home of a favorite local beer. After the company ceased to operate independently, the building was converted into several businesses, including restaurants and specialty shops. In recent years, some retail space has been converted into luxury condominiums.

From the 1920s through the 1980s the square was famous as a gathering place of painters of widely varying talents, including proficient professionals, talented young art students, hacks, and dreadful caricaturists. In the 1990s the artists were largely driven away by tarot card readers, mimes, and fortune tellers.

Live music is a regular feature of the square. Occasional formal concerts are held here, but for a century or more musicians playing for tips have set up in the square, the subject of unending controversy with nearby residents.

Diagonally across the square from the Cabildo is Café du Monde, open 24 hours a day, well known for the café au lait with chicory and beignets served there continuously since the 19th century.

 

Hurricane Katrina

August 29th, 2005, the majority of New Orleans was flooded due to levee breaches after Hurricane Katrina. The French Quarter, like most of the parts of town developed before the late 19th century, was one of the areas to remain substantially dry, since it was built on dry land that predated New Orleans' levee systems and sits 5 feet (1.5 metres) above sea level. Some streets experienced minor flooding, and several buildings experienced significant wind damage. Most of the major landmarks suffered only minor damage and most have since reopened or are scheduled to reopen . The Quarter largely escaped the looting and violence after the storm highlighted by large national and international media outlets; nearly all the fine antique and art shops in the French Quarter, for example, were untouched.

Mayor Ray Nagin officially reopened the French Quarter on September 26, 2005 to business owners to inspect property and clean up. Within a month, a large selection of French Quarter businesses were back open.

 

 

 

THE FRENCH QUARTER FESTIVAL French Quarter Festival 2007 - The Show Will Go On!

The French Quarter is the oldest area of the city, but is more properly known as the Vieux Carre, because although founded by the French in 1718, it also reflects the art and architecture of the Spanish era. By the 1850's, the French Quarter had fallen into disrepair. It was saved by a woman with great resolve and great courage. The Baroness Michaela Pontalba, daughter of the Spanish official Almonaster, oversaw the construction of two apartment buildings flanking the main square. These apartments still stand, and are the oldest apartment buildings in the United States. Baroness Pontalba's efforts worked and the French Quarterwas revived.

The French Quarter again fell on hard times in the late Nineteenth Century. Many of its now elegant buildings had become little better than slums, home to the poorest immigrints.

French Market
The aroma of freshly ground coffee and fresh herbs float through the aisles of the historic French Market, located at the foot of the French Quarter. This wonderful open air market is reminiscent of the European markets so loved by locals and tourists. It is also the perfect package of shopping, dining and music with an Old World ambience.

New Orleans’ French Market has existed in this French Quarter site since 1791 and has remained true to its authentic mission for 200 years. It is America’s oldest public market and to this day plays an important role in the local economy.

Walk up and down the five blocks of specialty retail shops (a great place to find that one-of-a-kind souvenir for the folks back home) and a community flea market showcasing locally made jewelry, clothing and artifacts. Look for the local farmers selling the freshest fruits, vegetables and Creole herbs and spices. In the late spring and summer, bring home some succulent Creole tomatoes, a true delight!

Located on the edge of the market is Café du Monde, a world renowned outdoor restaurant featuring café au lait (piping hot coffee with steamed milk) and beignets (hot, square donuts topped with powdered sugar). There are casual restaurants for lighter fare and fine dining available at Bella Luna Restaurant, Tujaque’s and others.

Please note: many restaurants have public restrooms, but most reserve them for paying customers. Public restrooms are located in the outdoor community flea market and on Decatur Street at the French Market.

For more information on the beautiful French Market, visit: www.frenchmarket.org.

The historic French Market
For over 200 years, the historic French Market has been an enduring symbol of pride and progress for the people of New Orleans. While the Market has existed on the same site since 1791, each new decade and governing flag has brought dramatic changes to the Market and helped to secure its special place in the hearts of the people of New Orleans.

What began as a Native American trading post on the banks of the mighty, muddy Mississippi River on the site chosen for the City by the French, has become a cultural, commercial and entertainment treasure which the Crescent City proudly shares with the world.

Today, America's oldest public market has assumed a leading role in the local economy as well, providing consistently increasing revenues for city government while putting millions of dollars back into the local economy.

French Quarter Festival

April 13-15, 2007

April 11-13, 2008


First on the calendar is the French Quarter Festival, which started in 1984 as a small music festival attended primarily by locals. It still retains the down-home hospitality of its roots - admission is free, for instance, and most of the performers are locals - but the festival has grown tremendously through the years. In 2005, the French Quarter Festival beat even its own expectations for attendance with approximately half a million people turning out for the weekend outdoor party.

Once again this year, the festival will be a three-day music showcase, using the historic streets of the French Quarter and the scenic vistas of the linear park along the Mississippi River as its festival grounds. Dixieland bands play traditional numbers under lacy iron balconies at regular intervals along Bourbon and Royal streets, more contemporary bands ranging from rock and funk to reggae, zydeco and New Orleans brass hold court on the larger riverfront stages. Meanwhile, the heart of the French Quarter - Jackson Square - becomes the scene of what the festival calls "the world's largest jazz brunch." Performers sing and play at one end of the landscaped square, while festival goers take their pick of dozens of food options from booths ringing the square set up by local restaurants and bars - serving everything from beef brisket to crawfish crepes to po-boys and meat pies. All the while, the merchants of the French Quarter offer shady respite and a chance to shop for cool things you'd never see in a suburban mall.

For updates on the performance schedule and food options, check the festival's official Web site at www.frenchquarterfestivals.com.

New Orleans French Quarter Tours
Whether it's the 17th century architecture, the famous bars or ghostly haunts that interest you, there is a tour for you.

In the mid-twentieth century, historic preservationists successfully began the authentic restoration of this Eighteenth Century “time capsule," a project that continues to this day.

Boundaries

The French Quarter is bounded by Rampart Street, Esplanade Avenue, Canal Street, and the Mississippi River. Although certain areas are well-known to tourists, there are actually several distinct neighborhoods. The most well-known area is the entertainment section, with its farmous restaurants, bars, and hotels. Dining venues range from the Lucky Dog vendor on Bourbon Street to the fine Creole Dining of Arnaud’s or Galatoires. Music wafts from the Bourbon Street clubs, jazz institutions such as Preservation Hall, or the newcomer House of Blues, or, just on any street corner on any given day. The many antique shops on Royal Street contain treasures. A stroll down Decatur Street culminates at the bustling Old French Market, where the Indians traded long before Bienville arrived. Off he beaten track, residential streets and old Creole cottages in the lower quarter contrast with ongoing party of that is Bourbon Street.

Sites To See beyond Bourbon Street

The “Ladies in Red,” are the streetcars that traverse the streets along the banks of the Mississippi, on the edge of the Quarter. Beyond the floodwalls, which have recently saved this historic part of the city from catastrophic flooding, is Woldenberg Park. Constructed atop old wharves, Woldenberg Park provides a relaxing green space to watch the busy river. Tankers sail alonside cruise ships and paddle-wheeled steamboats. At this bend in the river, the reason we are called Crescent City becomes obvious. The sound effects of the Quarter of sounds are fascinating—the calliope on the Steamboat Natchez pounds out a happy tune, as a muscian on the Moonwalk hails the foggy sunrise; and the vibrant singing of street performers all blend in, in surprising concert.

 

The heart of the Quarter is Jackson Square, flanked on its sides by the Pontalba Buildings and at its top, by the St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo(the seat of government for the French and Spanish), and PresbytereAt the square, At the edge of the upper quarter, Canal Street demonstrates the contrast between the Creole sector (Vieux Carre) and the American sector on the other side. Double signs indicate that the old French “Rues” end at Canal Street and the “new” American streets begin on the other side. Rampart Street is the inner boundary of the Vieux Carre. This was the edge of the original city and the place where New Orleans buried the throngs of those lost to the Yellow Fever epidemics of the early years of the city. Although the city has expanded on all sides, its heart remains the French Quarter.

 

 

Mardi Gras French Quarter

In the late 1700s pre-Lenten balls and fetes were held in New Orleans. Under French rule masked balls flourished, but were later banned by the Spanish governors. The prohibition continued when New Orleans became an American city in 1803, but by 1823, the Creole populace prevailed upon the American governor, and balls were again permitted. Four years later street masking was legalized.

In the early 19th Century, the public celebration of Mardi Gras consisted mainly of maskers on foot, in carriages and on horseback. In 1837, a costumed group of revelers walked in the first documented "parade," but the violent behavior of maskers during the next two decades caused the press to call for an end to Mardi Gras. Fortunately, six New Orleanians who were former members of the Cowbellians, (a group that had presented New Year's Eve parades in Mobile since 1831), saved the New Orleans Mardi Gras by forming the Comus organization in 1857. The men beautified the celebration and proved that it could be enjoyed in a safe and festive manner. Comus coined the word "krewe" and established several Mardi Gras traditions by forming a secret Carnival society, choosing a mythological namesake, presenting a themed parade with floats and costumed maskers, and staging a tableau ball.

A visit by the Russian Grand Duke Alexis Romanoff was the partial inspiration for the first appearance of Rex in 1872. The King of Carnival immediately became the international symbol of Mardi Gras. Rex presented Mardi Gras' first organized daytime parade, selected Carnival's colors--purple, gold and green, produced its flag, and introduced its anthem, "If Ever I Cease To Love." In 1872, the Knights of Momus also entered the Carnival scene.

Mardi Gras in the French Quarter is a mixture of cosutmes beads blaconies and the best adult fun.

 

 

 

 

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