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A History of the French
Quarter in New Orleans
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The French Quarter is the
oldest and most famous neighborhood of the
city of New Orleans, Louisiana. The area
is also known as the Vieux Carré
("Old Square" in French) and the
Barrio Latino ("Latin Neighborhood"
in Spanish). To many of us born here, it
is simply just called "The Quarter."
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Founded as a military-style
grid of seventy squares in 1718 by French
Canadian naval officer Jean Baptiste Bienville,
the French Quarter of New Orleans has charted
a course of urbanism for parts of four centuries.
Bienville served as governor for financier
John Law's Company of the Indies, which
in naming the city for the Regent Duc d'Orleans
sought to curry Court favor before failing
spectacularly in the "Great Mississippi
Bubble." The French Period legacy endures
in the town plan and central square, church
of St. Louis, Ursuline Convent and women's
education, ancien regime street names such
as Bourbon and Royal, the charity hospital,
and a mixed legacy of Creole culture, Mardi
Gras, and the important effects of African
enslavement combined with a tolerant approach
to free persons of color.
The "Spanish"
Quarter
In 1762 the indifferent Louis XV transferred
Louisiana to his Bourbon cousin Charles
III of Spain. Emboldened by a period of
Spanish vacillation in taking power, Francophile
colonists staged a revolution in 1768, summarily
squelched by Alejandro O'Reilly with a firing
squad at the Esplanade fort. Spanish rule
lasted for four decades, imparting a legacy
of semi-fortified streetscapes, common-wall
plastered brick houses, and walled courtyards
used as gardens and utility spaces with
separate servants' quarters and kitchens.
Olive oil cooking and graceful wrought iron
balconies, hinges and locks in curvilinear
shapes, and strong vestiges of civil law
remain from the Spanish presence. After
great fires of 1788 and 1794, the Cabildo
or town hall, Presbytere or priests' residence,
and ironically the "French" Market,
arose to take a permanent place in French
Quarter history.
The most common
definition of the French Quarter
includes all the land stretching
along the Mississippi River from
Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue
(12 blocks) and inland to Rampart
Street (7 to 9 blocks). Some definitions,
such as city zoning laws, exclude
the blocks facing Canal Street (which
had already been redeveloped by
the time "preservation"
was considered) and the section
between Decatur Street and the River,
much of which had long served industrial
and warehousing functions. Any alteration
to structures in the remaining blocks
is subject to review by the "Vieux
Carré Commission," which
determines whether the proposal
is "appropriate" for the
historic character of the district.
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After the
Louisiana Purchase
The 1803 Louisiana Purchase, signed within
the elegant salon of the Cabildo, transferred
the colony to the United States, inaugurating
an era of prosperity. American culture made
slow inroads, largely owing to the arrival
of 10,000 refugees of the French and Haitian
Revolutions and Napoleonic wars. The "glorious
victory" of the 1815 Battle of New
Orleans, led by Indian fighter and future
president Andrew Jackson over numerically
superior British forces, fixed loyalty to
the American nation. The French Quarter's
golden era followed as cotton, sugar and
steamboats poured into the city. American,
Irish, German, African and "Foreign
French" immigrants swelled the population,
creating a heterogeneous matrix of culture,
language, religion and cuisine.
Civil War
to WPA
Civil War and Reconstruction, played out
politically on the streets of the French
Quarter, put an end to prosperity and inaugurated
a tug of war between reform and machine
factions as the Old Square declined. Creoles
moved to Esplanade and later Uptown, and
famine-driven Sicilian immigrants found
cramped lodging in the grand spaces of French
Quarter mansions of the 1890s. The 1900
birth of jazz in nearby Storyville nurtured
musical legends Jelly Roll Morton, Louis
Armstrong, Buddy Bolden, King Oliver, Bunk
Johnson, Nick LaRocca, and other jazz and
ragtime greats. By 1920 the legacy of a
storied past first celebrated by George
Washington Cable and Lafcadio Hearn in the
1880s attracted writers and artists in increasing
numbers. William Faulkner, Sherwood Anderson,
Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote were
among American writers attracted to the
French Quarter for its freewheeling urbanism,
quaint surroundings and creative stimulus,
even as the building stock declined.
Most of
the buildings date from before New
Orleans became part of the United
States, although there are some
late 19th century and early 20th
century buildings in the area as
well. Since the 1920s the historic
buildings have been protected by
law and cannot be demolished, and
any renovations or new construction
in the neighborhood must be done
according to regulations to match
the period historic architectural
style.
With elaborate ironwork galleries
on the corner of Royal and St. Peter
streets, to the crowed Bourbonstreet
bead balcony bars. Despite the name,
much of the architecture was built
during the Spanish rule over New
Orleans rather than the French.
A great fire in 1794 destroyed much
of the Quarter's old French colonial
architecture, leaving the colony's
new Spanish overlords to rebuild
it according to more modern tastes
-- and strict new fire codes, which
mandated that all structures be
physically adjacent and close to
the curb to create a firewall. The
old French peaked roofs were replaced
with flat tiled ones, and now-banned
wooden siding with fire-resistant
stucco, painted in the pastel hues
fashionable at the time. As a result,
colorful walls and roofs and elaborately
decorated ironwork balconies and
galleries from both the 18th century
and 19th centuries abound. (In southeast
Louisiana, a distinction is made
between balconies, which have no
roof over them, and "galleries,"
which do.)
Long after the
U.S. purchase of Louisiana, descendants
of French colonists lived in this
part of town, and the French language
was often heard there as late as
the start of the 20th century.
When the Americans
began to move in after the Louisiana
Purchase, they mostly built just
upriver, across modern day Canal
Street. The median of the wide boulevard
became a place where the two contentious
populations could meet and do business.
As such, it became known as the
"neutral ground", and
this name persists in the New Orleans
area for medians.
In the late 19th
century the Old Quarter became a
less fashionable part of town, and
many immigrants from southern Italy
settled in the section. In the early
20th century the Quarter's cheap
rents and air of age and neglected
decay attracted a bohemian and artistic
community.
On December 21,
1965, the "Vieux Carré
Historic District" was designated
a National Historic Landmark.
In the 1980s many
long-term Quarter residents were
evicted or driven away by rising
rents as property values rose dramatically
with expectations of windfalls from
the planned 1984 World's Fair nearby.
More of the neighborhood became
developed for the benefit of tourism.
The French Quarter remains a combination
of residential and commercial properties.
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Vieux Carre
Commission
Nineteen thirty-six marked the onset of
regulatory controls in the form of the state-sanctioned
Vieux Carré Commission. Residents
dug in to preserve the quaint and distinctive
character of the old Quarter as art galleries
and antique stores sprouted on Royal Street
and brassy Dixieland-style jazz flourished
in Bourbon Street nightclubs and strip joints.
By 1960, with traditional jazz in decline,
Preservation Hall emerged to serve beleaguered
musicians. Here Sweet Emma Barrett and other
traditional and largely African-American
musicians found appreciative and sober audiences.
Today, these and other preservation battles
are the order of the day as increasing pressure
from a tourist-driven economy lures some
10 million visitors annually to the time
and foot-worn streets of the Vieux Carré.
Jackson Square (formerly Place
des Armes) , Originally designed by architect
and landscaper Louis H. Pilié (although
he is only given credit for the iron fence),
is a city-block sized open park, at the
old center of the city ( GPS +29.95748 -090.06310
). After the Battle of New Orleans it was
named after victorious general Andrew Jackson;
an equestrian statue of Jackson is in the
center of the park.
Jackson statue and Saint Louis CathedralThe
square originally overlooked the Mississippi
River across Decatur Street, but the view
was blocked in the 19th century by the building
of larger levees. The riverfront was long
given to shipping, but the administration
of Mayor Moon Landrieu put in a scenic boardwalk
along the river across from the Square;
it is known as the "Moon Walk"
in his honor.
On the opposite side of the
square are three 18th-century historic buildings
which were the city's heart in the colonial
era. The center of the three is St. Louis
Cathedral. The Cathedral was designated
a minor Basilica by Pope Paul VI. To its
left is the Cabildo, the old city hall,
now a museum, where the finalization of
the Louisiana Purchase was signed. To the
Cathedral's right is the Presbytère,
built to match the Cabildo. The Presbytère
originally housed the city's Roman Catholic
priests and authorities, it was then turned
into a courthouse at the start of the 19th
century, and in the 20th century became
a museum.
On the other two sides of
the square are the Pontalba Buildings, matching
red-brick block long 4-story buildings built
in the 1840s. The ground floors house shops
and restaurants; the upper floors are apartments
that are the oldest continuously rented
such apartments in North America.
Directly across from Jackson
Square is the Jax Brewery building, the
original home of a favorite local beer.
After the company ceased to operate independently,
the building was converted into several
businesses, including restaurants and specialty
shops. In recent years, some retail space
has been converted into luxury condominiums.
From the 1920s through the
1980s the square was famous as a gathering
place of painters of widely varying talents,
including proficient professionals, talented
young art students, hacks, and dreadful
caricaturists. In the 1990s the artists
were largely driven away by tarot card readers,
mimes, and fortune tellers.
Live music is a regular feature
of the square. Occasional formal concerts
are held here, but for a century or more
musicians playing for tips have set up in
the square, the subject of unending controversy
with nearby residents.
Diagonally across the square
from the Cabildo is Café du Monde,
open 24 hours a day, well known for the
café au lait with chicory and beignets
served there continuously since the 19th
century.
Hurricane
Katrina
August 29th,
2005, the majority of New Orleans
was flooded due to levee breaches
after Hurricane Katrina. The French
Quarter, like most of the parts
of town developed before the late
19th century, was one of the areas
to remain substantially dry, since
it was built on dry land that predated
New Orleans' levee systems and sits
5 feet (1.5 metres) above sea level.
Some streets experienced minor flooding,
and several buildings experienced
significant wind damage. Most of
the major landmarks suffered only
minor damage and most have since
reopened or are scheduled to reopen
. The Quarter largely escaped the
looting and violence after the storm
highlighted by large national and
international media outlets; nearly
all the fine antique and art shops
in the French Quarter, for example,
were untouched.
Mayor Ray Nagin
officially reopened the French Quarter
on September 26, 2005 to business
owners to inspect property and clean
up. Within a month, a large selection
of French Quarter businesses were
back open.
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THE
FRENCH QUARTER FESTIVAL French
Quarter Festival 2007 - The
Show Will Go On!
The French
Quarter is the oldest area
of the city, but is more properly
known as the Vieux Carre,
because although founded by
the French in 1718, it also
reflects the art and architecture
of the Spanish era. By the
1850's, the French Quarter
had fallen into disrepair.
It was saved by a woman with
great resolve and great courage.
The Baroness Michaela Pontalba,
daughter of the Spanish official
Almonaster, oversaw the construction
of two apartment buildings
flanking the main square.
These apartments still stand,
and are the oldest apartment
buildings in the United States.
Baroness Pontalba's efforts
worked and the French Quarterwas
revived.
The French
Quarter again fell on hard
times in the late Nineteenth
Century. Many of its now elegant
buildings had become little
better than slums, home to
the poorest immigrints.
French
Market
The aroma of freshly ground
coffee and fresh herbs float
through the aisles of the
historic French Market, located
at the foot of the French
Quarter. This wonderful open
air market is reminiscent
of the European markets so
loved by locals and tourists.
It is also the perfect package
of shopping, dining and music
with an Old World ambience.
New
Orleans’ French Market
has existed in this French
Quarter site since 1791 and
has remained true to its authentic
mission for 200 years. It
is America’s oldest
public market and to this
day plays an important role
in the local economy.
Walk
up and down the five blocks
of specialty retail shops
(a great place to find that
one-of-a-kind souvenir for
the folks back home) and a
community flea market showcasing
locally made jewelry, clothing
and artifacts. Look for the
local farmers selling the
freshest fruits, vegetables
and Creole herbs and spices.
In the late spring and summer,
bring home some succulent
Creole tomatoes, a true delight!
Located
on the edge of the market
is Café du Monde, a
world renowned outdoor restaurant
featuring café au lait
(piping hot coffee with steamed
milk) and beignets (hot, square
donuts topped with powdered
sugar). There are casual restaurants
for lighter fare and fine
dining available at Bella
Luna Restaurant, Tujaque’s
and others.
Please
note: many restaurants have
public restrooms, but most
reserve them for paying customers.
Public restrooms are located
in the outdoor community flea
market and on Decatur Street
at the French Market.
For
more information on the beautiful
French Market, visit: www.frenchmarket.org.
The
historic French Market
For over 200 years, the historic
French Market has been an
enduring symbol of pride and
progress for the people of
New Orleans. While the Market
has existed on the same site
since 1791, each new decade
and governing flag has brought
dramatic changes to the Market
and helped to secure its special
place in the hearts of the
people of New Orleans.
What
began as a Native American
trading post on the banks
of the mighty, muddy Mississippi
River on the site chosen for
the City by the French, has
become a cultural, commercial
and entertainment treasure
which the Crescent City proudly
shares with the world.
Today, America's
oldest public market has assumed
a leading role in the local
economy as well, providing
consistently increasing revenues
for city government while
putting millions of dollars
back into the local economy.
French
Quarter Festival
April
13-15, 2007
April
11-13, 2008
First on the calendar is the
French Quarter Festival, which
started in 1984 as a small
music festival attended primarily
by locals. It still retains
the down-home hospitality
of its roots - admission is
free, for instance, and most
of the performers are locals
- but the festival has grown
tremendously through the years.
In 2005, the French Quarter
Festival beat even its own
expectations for attendance
with approximately half a
million people turning out
for the weekend outdoor party.
Once
again this year, the festival
will be a three-day music
showcase, using the historic
streets of the French Quarter
and the scenic vistas of the
linear park along the Mississippi
River as its festival grounds.
Dixieland bands play traditional
numbers under lacy iron balconies
at regular intervals along
Bourbon and Royal streets,
more contemporary bands ranging
from rock and funk to reggae,
zydeco and New Orleans brass
hold court on the larger riverfront
stages. Meanwhile, the heart
of the French Quarter - Jackson
Square - becomes the scene
of what the festival calls
"the world's largest
jazz brunch." Performers
sing and play at one end of
the landscaped square, while
festival goers take their
pick of dozens of food options
from booths ringing the square
set up by local restaurants
and bars - serving everything
from beef brisket to crawfish
crepes to po-boys and meat
pies. All the while, the merchants
of the French Quarter offer
shady respite and a chance
to shop for cool things you'd
never see in a suburban mall.
For
updates on the performance
schedule and food options,
check the festival's official
Web site at www.frenchquarterfestivals.com.
New Orleans
French Quarter Tours
Whether it's the 17th century
architecture, the famous bars
or ghostly haunts that interest
you, there is a tour for you.
In the mid-twentieth
century, historic preservationists
successfully began the authentic
restoration of this Eighteenth
Century “time capsule,"
a project that continues to
this day.
Boundaries
The French
Quarter is bounded by Rampart
Street, Esplanade Avenue,
Canal Street, and the Mississippi
River. Although certain areas
are well-known to tourists,
there are actually several
distinct neighborhoods. The
most well-known area is the
entertainment section, with
its farmous restaurants, bars,
and hotels. Dining venues
range from the Lucky Dog vendor
on Bourbon Street to the fine
Creole Dining of Arnaud’s
or Galatoires. Music wafts
from the Bourbon Street clubs,
jazz institutions such as
Preservation Hall, or the
newcomer House of Blues, or,
just on any street corner
on any given day. The many
antique shops on Royal Street
contain treasures. A stroll
down Decatur Street culminates
at the bustling Old French
Market, where the Indians
traded long before Bienville
arrived. Off he beaten track,
residential streets and old
Creole cottages in the lower
quarter contrast with ongoing
party of that is Bourbon Street.
Sites To
See beyond Bourbon Street
The “Ladies
in Red,” are the streetcars
that traverse the streets
along the banks of the Mississippi,
on the edge of the Quarter.
Beyond the floodwalls, which
have recently saved this historic
part of the city from catastrophic
flooding, is Woldenberg Park.
Constructed atop old wharves,
Woldenberg Park provides a
relaxing green space to watch
the busy river. Tankers sail
alonside cruise ships and
paddle-wheeled steamboats.
At this bend in the river,
the reason we are called Crescent
City becomes obvious. The
sound effects of the Quarter
of sounds are fascinating—the
calliope on the Steamboat
Natchez pounds out a happy
tune, as a muscian on the
Moonwalk hails the foggy sunrise;
and the vibrant singing of
street performers all blend
in, in surprising concert.
The
heart of the Quarter is Jackson
Square, flanked on its sides
by the Pontalba Buildings
and at its top, by the St.
Louis Cathedral, Cabildo(the
seat of government for the
French and Spanish), and PresbytereAt
the square, At the edge of
the upper quarter, Canal Street
demonstrates the contrast
between the Creole sector
(Vieux Carre) and the American
sector on the other side.
Double signs indicate that
the old French “Rues”
end at Canal Street and the
“new” American
streets begin on the other
side. Rampart Street is the
inner boundary of the Vieux
Carre. This was the edge of
the original city and the
place where New Orleans buried
the throngs of those lost
to the Yellow Fever epidemics
of the early years of the
city. Although the city has
expanded on all sides, its
heart remains the French Quarter.
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Mardi Gras
French Quarter
In the late 1700s pre-Lenten
balls and fetes were held in New Orleans.
Under French rule masked balls flourished,
but were later banned by the Spanish governors.
The prohibition continued when New Orleans
became an American city in 1803, but by
1823, the Creole populace prevailed upon
the American governor, and balls were again
permitted. Four years later street masking
was legalized.
In the early 19th Century,
the public celebration of Mardi Gras consisted
mainly of maskers on foot, in carriages
and on horseback. In 1837, a costumed group
of revelers walked in the first documented
"parade," but the violent behavior
of maskers during the next two decades caused
the press to call for an end to Mardi Gras.
Fortunately, six New Orleanians who were
former members of the Cowbellians, (a group
that had presented New Year's Eve parades
in Mobile since 1831), saved the New Orleans
Mardi Gras by forming the Comus organization
in 1857. The men beautified the celebration
and proved that it could be enjoyed in a
safe and festive manner. Comus coined the
word "krewe" and established several
Mardi Gras traditions by forming a secret
Carnival society, choosing a mythological
namesake, presenting a themed parade with
floats and costumed maskers, and staging
a tableau ball.
A visit by the Russian Grand
Duke Alexis Romanoff was the partial inspiration
for the first appearance of Rex in 1872.
The King of Carnival immediately became
the international symbol of Mardi Gras.
Rex presented Mardi Gras' first organized
daytime parade, selected Carnival's colors--purple,
gold and green, produced its flag, and introduced
its anthem, "If Ever I Cease To Love."
In 1872, the Knights of Momus also entered
the Carnival scene.
Mardi Gras in the French Quarter
is a mixture of cosutmes beads blaconies
and the best adult fun.
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